Sunday 23rd September (Day 67): Beaugency to Chaumont (68 km)

Slept really well until 9am – what a luxury! By the time we had packed, loaded and bought pastries for the day it was already 11.30. It was, however, q gentle autumn day with clouds, mild sunshine, and a glorious head wind (hurrah for the head wind). By the time we had cycled through narrow lanes, past the towering edifice of one of the nuclear power stations, and onto the levee beside the river we were really enjoying the day.

Lunch was taken on a rather elegant bench overlooking the Chateau Chambord with its collection of ornate, lofty chimneys perched on grey-tiled towers. All is supported on a huge white stone edifice (shown in one of the pictures on this Blog). Amazing, especially as it was such a folly. The surrounding parkland is partially a wildlife reserve and is open to the public; Great for walking and cycling. After our picnic we headed off toward Chiteau and ‘made it up’, bowling along forest roads surrounded by the sound of falling acorns.

We pedalled into Chaumont, and because John had an infected gnat bite we decided to call it a day. We popped the tent up in the pretty camp site beside the river qnd then mooched up the hill to see the local chateau and the splendid view from the top.

 

Friday 21st September (Day 65): Beaulieu to Chateau Neuf Sur Loire (74 km)

Today began with watery sunshine (recalcitrant and refusing to give out any heat) and the realisation that the campsite was adjacent to the local unofficial truck stop. Tempers becqme somewhat frayed as we often had to yell to each other the the racket of the idling lorries.

We finally set off at 10am and puffed up the hill back into town. Looked into the 12th century Romanesque church (Saint Etienne) later embellished with Gothic extras, before pedalling off into the hills.

The route we hqd chosen basically followed the route of the Loire meandering through towns and villages. We were often taken aback as we crested hills to see a fantastical chateau looming on the horizon. Sully-sur-le-Loire was particulqrly memorable.

 

Thursday 20th September (Day 64): Nevers to Beaulieu (92 km)

Another misty, chilly start to the day. Saw our Dutch pals again…they sensibly packed up and went for breakfast in the campsite cafe before heading off on their 100km for the day. We, in the meantime had a rather crispy discussion about the merits of drying the tent out before we set off for the day.

We finally got going, and began to thaw out on the bikes as we headed out of Nevers. We passed by ore picturesque villqges, often with a grand old chateau thrown if for good measure. Lunch was idyllic. Stopped on a grqssy gnoll in the sunshine beside an apple tree. We lay in the sun for our repast, entertaining a couple of guys who drove past. Motorists were again friendly and encouraging giving friendly waves or tootles as they drove past.

 

Tuesday 18th September (Day 62): Paray le Monial to Decize (90 km)

Awoke to a gloomy tent which could only mean one thing – the rain that had fallen with a vengeance all night had not quite done its dash. It was cold too – about 10°. Packed up and headed off to the local supermarket for supplies (almost impossible to get white gas in France, so we’re going to try unleaded petrol in our MSR Whisperlite stove). Cycled along the side of the canal initially whick broke the force of the head wind a little initially, but it was a wind that was to plague us forcefully for the rest of the day.

The sun made a couple of guest appearances, and lunch was by the Loire. We bumped our way down a steep little track to the river bank where there was a wooden platform jutting out into the water. A perfect spot to relax. After pushing our bikes back up the hill (doh) the rest of the ride from thence on was just hard work with one of us cycling in front for about 10kms each, with the other drafting, swap positions…repeat. Decize finally hove into view, and the riverside campsite was a gem. Celebrated cycling over 3,000kms.

 

Monday 17th September (Day 61): Santanay to Paray le Monial (90 km)

Last night was filled with the sound of owls and lit by stars that seemed an arm’s reach away. We tried a bottle of the local wine (highly recommended if you like Chardonnay). This morning woke bright-eyed and ready to set off again. The British couple from the carqvan next door (absolutely gorgeous and very friendly) had warned of a mixed bag of weather heading our way so we wanted to get going as soon as possible. We packed up in record time and said goodbye to all the people who had befriended us during our short stay.

We hoped on the Green Route along the Canale Centrale. Saw a huge luxury barge complete with swimming pool and staff negotiate a lock…hmmmm. The day was very still qnd the route that we took allowed us to enjoy the mesmerising reflection of the autumn trees and passing countryside. Saw a lot of wildlife too including lizards, herons, a shrew, birds of prey, and multiple insects. Also saw a couple of chateaux. One in particular had slate grey ogee topped cylindrical towers and was situqted in manicured gardens. Of interest too were the mining and canal communities that we passed through.

Almost killed myself on a slippery corner – lost the back wheel, nearly lost the front, righted everything, and continued with shaky legs and a pounding heart; John was in front and did not witness this near catastrophe

John suffered his second puncture in as many days so we decied to change the inner and the tyre. Efficiently he changed the necessary while I mended the puncture, qnd kept us fed with fresh hazelnuts from the tree under which we were working;

The final part of the day turned into a sprint to try to outrun the rain. We failed miserably. The thunder clouds caught us and made locating the campsite in Paray le Monial a bit of a mission. Lovely campsite though; peaceful and well-equipped.

 

Sunday 16th September (Day 60): Santanay (11 km!)

We decided to stay another day in Santanay we like it so much. The weather is divine, and we fancy packing a picnic and heading off on the bikes without d’luggage.

It has been blissful. John cycled off into the village for croissants for breakfast (just needed the beret…) and returned with a big smile and lots of pastries. Sitting in the sun having made coffee on our rather splendid stovetop coffee pot watching the long morning shadows on the hills was just blissful. After breakfast we dawdled our way up to the local windmill. There just happened to be one of the gys who looks after the windmill (built in the early 1800s) up there, and he very kindly gave us a guided tour and run down (in French) of how the grain is milled. Amazing how much you can understand from context, a patient speaker of the language, and a smattering of appropriate voacabulary.

Once back at the campsite John set up a shade. A Dutch couple watched this until the bike that was holding the tarp up fell on my head, and then came over with some tent poles that they leant us for the afternoon. I spent the afternoon sketching the hills, while John does what he really enjoys – snoozing, reading, and eating.

 

Saturday 15th September (Day 59): Dole to Santenay (91 km)

Today was another day of almost perfect cycling; a bit dewy to start with it was wall-to-wall blue sky with a light breeze that later turned out to be a following wind. We cycled up the hill and out of Dole (with guys shouting encourqgement out of their car windows) and then through the undulating countryside. The leaves on the trees now are really changing colour and we hqve been treqted to dappled lanes of cycamores hung with bright red vines backlit by the sun.

Today we encountered a lot of encouragement from other cyclists qnd from motorists ranging from friendly waves to fanfares of car horns;

We are now in a fantastic campsite. Santenay is a pleasant village from which the smell of apples and wine emanates and stone buildings are surrounded by flowers and old wine presses. The view from the tent is fabulous with hills covered in vines. I am now off to sample the produce of said hills

 

Friday 14th September (Day 58): Osselle to Dole (44 km)

A short day today so that we could get some much needed laundry done and a couple of things mended (including the inner tube from John’s puncture this morning).

We woke to light fog that mean that everything was dripping wet, especially the tent. The failure of us to locate a supermarket yesterday also meant that breakfast was a little meagre, although Tobiqs kindly shared his bread with us. He decided to accompqny us as far as Dole, and then continue on from there.

The cycle was mainly along the canal on a sunny day that was almost perfect except for the head wind. Headed into town stopping at a place zith a fascinqting blocky church with one of the multi-coloured tiled rooves that are fmous in this region. Dole was a wonderful surpise. Chalky grey stone buildings built on a steep hill, narrow alleyways, and all topped with a cathedral. The campsite was a lovely place on its own island and we could see the whole town right out of the tent doorway.

People have been friendly and helpful in France in the last three days – they are lovely! Had a delightful meal in town by way of a change, and, clutching our phrase book, managed to do all the choosing etc in French!

 

Pics from France

Here we have our wonderful tent at a lovely french campsite with all our gear scattered on the gras as if a tornado had just gone through.

Doing what we do best, eating cake.

On the Loire. The river is dotted with mediaeval (never could spell that word) towns with great bridges. Most of them had lovely little campsites by the river looking up at the castle/chateau/cathedral.

Rain in Orleans. Looking happy despite the weather.

Chateau Chambord. An absolute folly built by Luis or Phillipe the something-or-other as a hunting lodge. It has hundereds of rooms ands was supposedly designed with the help of Leo DaVinci. The guy who built it stayed there for less than 50 days in total.

Another Chateau, similar in style but much smaller at Chaumont.

The missus looking perky.

The missus looking completely knackered after climbing an 18% hill. This was the 3rd such hill that morning. The first 2 we managed the cycle up, but this one was just too steep.

From here we head north and into britany for the last few days of the trip. The next posting will probably be made from the ferry as we return to the UK. Booo.

 

Thursday 13th September (Day 57): Isles la Doubs to Osselle (91 km)

Today was possibly one of the best days cycling we have ever done. We had a leisurely start and rolled out of the campsite at 9.30 am. I spoke some of the first ‘autentic’ French that I have ever used, and proudly emerged from, the boulangerie with a baguette and 4 pain au chocolat!! We then set off a nicely grqded hill though a couple of towns and along a ‘busy’ road. Drivers are, on the whole, incredibly considerate. For example, the roar that usually heralds the approach of a large truck – enough to strike fear into the heart of most cyclists – instead results in the truck slowing right down and then passing on the other side of the road, sometimes forcing the oncoming motorists onto the verge! It’s awesome. Cars will also follow you for kms down narrow roads instead of trying to push past. No wonder cycle paths are only just under construction; they don’t really need them here.

The hills were sometimes steep but never uncycleable with a load, and a lot were edged with great avenues of plane trees covered in vines just on the turn and coloured russet, red, burnt umber, and yellow. The villages we passed through were ‘real’ old farm houses with chooks charging around the yards, while others are colourfully painted. A couple of ladies sat with baskets of fresh walnts, relaxing in the sun. Many of the trees were rustling wildly as we cycled by as people attempted to dislodge various nuts and fruit. At the camp site in the evening the lovely lady there came up and gave us a couple of huge handfulls of fresh walnuts – delicious.

Tobias found us at our coffee stop and joined us for the day’s cycling. We cycled into Besçancon (busy, trqffic-filled, but with interesting narrow streets ad great tarte au citron) qnd then cycled out onto a cycle route beside the river Doubs. The campsite, apart fro, its close proximity to a gravel pit, was restful and, after a chilly dip in the lake, we cooked up on the picnic benches while watching the sun set.